The local mountaineering club at Bridger Bowl University has decided to shift its viewpoints on climbing. Recent debates at club meetings inspired a change from bouldering to climbing remote alpine faces. However, they did not shift to the normal styles of alpinism, but rather gained inspiration from historical Ceasare Maestri.
The group recently changed their tactics regarding climbing, believing that the ethic in the Montucky area has become too far removed from climbing history. Maestri, who famously carried a gas compressor up Cerro Torre in Patagonia, bolted up the rock tower and made climbing history in 1970. The mountaineering club decided to follow Maestri’s lead, and has proceeded to bring gas compressors to climbs in the Brozeman area.
“The hardest problem this far has been getting enough gas compressors. The entire club is excited about the change and the coolest part about climbing has always been clipping bolts. Now we get to do it more than ever,” Club President D-Rick Scootch explained.
So far, with only a couple compressors, few climbs have been completed in the style of their icon Maestri. Climbs that have been done so far include the Overhangutang boulder, the standard route on Gallatin Tower and the popular climb Winter Dance.
“Truthfully, Winter Dance was the hardest to bring the compressor up. The three hundred pound gas compressor got cold,” Scootch explained. “We also couldn’t find out how to get the bolts to stick in the ice.”
According to the mountaineering team, over five hundred bolts were placed on the climb and they topped out. Controversy remains, however, as to whether they reached the actual top, or stopped just shy where the compressor can be seen left hanging from a bolt.
As the amount of bolts increases with the amount of club members carrying compressor drills throughout the area, one can only wonder what will be next. Linking in local climbing history, they have decided their logical course of action will be to bolt Neru, a climb done by living legend Con-Brad Angler. They recognized the distinct lack of a bolt ladder and to honor both Angler and Maestri, have started raising funds to go bolt the prominent Dolphin’s Flipper route on Meru. Angler, when questioned on the ambitious goals, simply stated what a brilliant idea it was, noting how much more sense it would make to put in a bolt ladder so that more people could do the climb.
Scootch vehemently expressed that this has not completely destroyed their ideas on gas compressors, and the club will continue to grow this practice for the next few years.